Gulf of Nicoya

We went to Islas Tortugas after leaving Bahia Ballena. These two islands form an L which is open to the North and East. We tried anchoring off the north beach of the south island as recommended by Charlie, but the bottom shoals too rapidly for our comfort. We dropped 90 feet of chain in 30 feet of depth; while setting the anchor we passed over everything between 20 and 70 feet. We moved to the east shore of the western island. While we had no problem setting the anchor, it was uncomfortable in the easterly wind which has dominated our stay in the Gulf.

So we moved on to beautiful Isla Cedros. We anchored in the main anchorage between it and Isla Jesusita. This anchorage has a uniform 7m sand bottom and room for many boats. It was flat calm and offers great wind protection too. However there are no services and several sources warned that this was the most theft prone anchorage in the country. So we moved on after a couple nights. We did get to have a long chat with a local fisherman. The water here is murky with plenty of flotsam.

Our next stop was Isla Muertos (Bahia Luminosa). There is an enormous flat that shallows about 1m every 200m, starting in about 30m. The downside is that you anchor far from shore, again in a bay open to the prevailing easterlies. Several wrecks line the shore, making us wonder about the holding. The fantasy island yacht club is long dead, and Bahia Luminosa Resort was closed when we visited, also possibly for the long term. Without these attractions there is little reason to visit.

Our last stop was Isla San Lucas. Charlie refers to two anchorages the island, but for all practical purposes the large shallow bay on the NW side is the only anchorage. The bay has a vast area to anchor in 4-5m, mud bottom. The wreck marked on the charts is currently being used as a mooring for the floating restaurant, so just give the restaurant a swinging circle and you'll be fine. We went ashore to the tour the old prison, but have not yet visited the restaurant. We plan to do so when we return.

We've since moved on to Puntarenas, where Scream is being hauled Friday morning. Chaos has ensued.